Sarmoli:The Home, the Hearth

As I am back from my trip and have tales to tell, I can jolly well be whimsical and simply follow my heart's wishes and not do chronological logging. So, this post has to be about the pretty village of Sarmoli in Munsiyari, a getaway for the intrepid traveler. And well, I was whole bit over packed but then that's another story, for another day. Although getting there is equally interesting but that needs to be the next log entry call it my whim or madness, whatever.

"Kahtey hain ke Mumbai ka fashion aur Munsiyari ka weather ek jaise hai, har minute badalta rahta hai," said Kamla Pandey with her infectious smile, welcoming us to her home for the next four days. Loosely translated which meant "what Mumbai is for fashion, Munsiyari is to weather, fickle." The next few nights and days told us how true it was. "Hum log pura saal banyan (sweater) daalten hain," or "we have to wear a sweater through out the year." 

The pretty little cottage can be booked by duo travelers like us or a group of five people at max to support the eco-tourism efforts of the Himalayan Ark, a local NGO working towards village sustainability as more and more tourists head to this area. The charges are Rs. 1500/- per person per day inclusive of all three meals, mostly vegetarian but all the produce is largely organic and home grown so gobble up the good taste with joy. 

During our stay we tasted yummy leafy vegetable indigenous to this area called "Jard", buttery and delicious. Bhang ki chutney or savoury condiment made with marijuana seeds. "It won't give you a high don't worry," reassured us our hostess mischievously, not that I would mind one bit on a holiday. Doing silly things is definitely recommended in my books on holidays. The local Rajma or white beans full of wholesome goodness and melt in your mouth. 

The mind-blowing one however, was Gahar daal, a red coloured lentil which immediately warmed my toes. It is largely eaten during the cold season and that cold night of pre - cloud burst torrential rainy evening, I just needed a bit of Gahar for sure. And last but not the least, the home grown peppermint mint for tea. She showed a clueless me both the varieties used for infusion and cooking.

Long leaf  pepper mint and short leafy mint used as an aromatic in cooking 

Kamala also gave us a parcel each of dried peppermint leaves as parting gift. It was way too sweet of her. The room has lovely large windows with kitchenette for tea and goodies. Fitted with a kettle to the boot, so peppermint tea was the order of the day during our stay and a good dose of coffee. Not to forget the instant noodles mania that can attack you in the hills every now and then after a hike.  

The lovely windows will take your breath away with the changing moods of the mountain. We spent our evenings reminiscing and making new memories from this cinematic window.

The panoramic views will keep you mesmerized for sure. We had Munsiyari on our minds for over eight - nine years and somehow could never get there although it is not that faraway from Delhi at 647 Kms. But it sure took us too long to get there. Now that I have tick boxed it I will surely go back for one of the treks in the area. This time round we just soaked up the sights and made new friends.

As the village life went on in a rhythm which became all too familiar very quickly, the folks met us with a familiar smile and egged us to come back for the trek soon, It was lovely to see their confidence in us especially when our host himself an able guide, complimented us for our non-stop ambling about and positive body language, that meant something to us for sure. Fact is he had just walked back 67 Kms from Milam base camp on the same day. 

You can head for a day trek to Khalia top, the pinnacle of Munsiyari or become more adventurous and do the Milam Johar glacier trek of 8 days. There are helicopter shuttles available from Munsiyari to the base camp and back if the weather permits. Mostly all able bodied men of the village have been there and done that several times over. So, they are expert advisers and do pay heed to what they have to say. For a glacier trek they recommend a week's acclimatization at the village so that your body has adjusted to the demands of the long duration moderate and tough negotiations that the terrain demands. And couple of months of training before that at your own gym at home.

The contemplating child

The mountains quite like the sea perhaps makes philosophers of us, especially the children. As Wordsworth said, 'The Child is the father of Man.' Although I had written many a reference to the contexts on the same but it again came to me when I saw little Shiv sit under this tree every now and then through out our stay. It always brought a smile to my face like now I am afraid :)

Contact: Malika Virdi of Himalayan Ark for accommodations at malika.virdi@gmail.com

Best time to visit - October to May

Festivals and marathon - Himalayan Ark and Maati Collective hosts a fortnight of festivities including short distance running and mountain marathon every May. Get in touch with Ms. Virdi to confirm the dates. Book ahead as they have limited home stay options in the village, otherwise you might need to stay at KMVN and Himalayan Gampling and miss out on the doorstep fun.

Aside

"Tumhara naam kya hai?"
"Pragya, aur aapka?"
"Kashish, aur uska?"
"Kasturi."
"Kahan se aaye ho?"
"Delhi,"
"Aur woh?"
"Woh bhi Delhi se aayi hai,"
"Wahan kahan rahte ho?"
"South Delhi, aur aap?"
"Mela ghal upal hai.Aur uska?"
"Woh East Delhi mein rahti hai."
"Aap alag alag rahtey ho?"
"Haan, aap school jatey ho?"
"Haan."
"Kaunse school?"
"Niche,"
"Kaunse se class mein padhtey ho?"
"Two. Tumko sardi nahi lag rahi hai?"
"Nahi to, aur aapko sardi lag rahi hai kya?"
"Nahi mujhey bhi nahi,"
"Chalo chocolate khatey hain,"

 or in English it will be,

What's your name? Peeped two bright eyes and pigtails.

Pragya, and yours?

Kashish and hers? asked Kashish indicating my ambling friend ahead.

Kasturi.

Where are you from? She inquired.

Delhi.

And she?

She too is from Delhi, I replied.

Where do you stay in Delhi?

South Delhi and you?

I stay up the hill, she pointed. How about her?

She stays is East Delhi.

You live separately? She asked.

Yes, Do you go to school?

Yes.

Which school?

Down that way, she pointed towards Munsiyari Bazar.

Which class do you read in?

Grade Two. Aren't you feeling cold?

Not particularly, how about you? Are you feeling cold?

No, me neither, replied Kashish, tugging at her sweater.

Ok on that note let's have some chocolates.

Her face broke into a toothy grin. This was the most adult conversation I have ever had with a child and I was enamoured beyond words. And she did not look a day older than 5! Perhaps her brother was in Second Grade I thought and in her make believe Calvinesque world she was reading in second grade. I somehow resisted myself from picking up this bundle of joy for a cuddle. Trust me, it was difficult, mighty difficult. Her adult self was just too charming to be ignored.

Soon my guess work was validated. Her friend Mona told me "Kashish" too was a fictitious name she had christened herself  but did not comply with the real time name in solidarity with her friends' secret I am sure. That was the first conversation with under 10 true blue resident of Sarmoli, Munsiyari. After that we were greeted by all and sundry villagers with almost the same questions time and again as they met us on the trails or found us lolling or reading round and about the village. But this conversation was bound to be a high point to remember from my trip. My fellow traveler and journalist was entertained equally as for once someone else had all the questions and not her :D


Photos: Kasturi Banerjee and Pragya Majumder