The Colourful Pedestrian Life at Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

Come winters in Delhi, it is absolute must to visit the charming old world of  Chandni Chowk. Fascinating and thriving with activities, it is an epitome of Indian cities: crazy traffic, teaming humanity, slice of everyday business, trying desperately to catch up with infrastructural growth. Moreover, Chandni Chowk is a melting pot of general Indian history and of Indian city life in general. Here the old world of Delhi synchronizes itself with the new and offers unforgettable endearing experiences.

The best part is Chandni Chowk has so much to offer with changing seasons and one festival or the other that you never get bored by it. This time it was Dariba Kalan and the adjacent neighbourhood but during Ramzan, Jama Masjid and the adjacent area is the go-to place. You can tickle your taste buds with the myriad food stalls through out the night and yes at that time it is a non-vegetarian's dream run!

Although, to lose "Ghanteywala", a legendary sweet shop to changing history of the city leaves a very huge hole in my heart. But nevertheless I ventured to revisit just to touch base with an old-friend, a memory. Ghanteywalla literally had to close shop in 2015 due to the foreseeable closure of small businesses that could no more hold on to old traditions and nor could they remain profitable.

It has become now officially a closed chapter in Delhi's culinary history. For people like me who grew up in Delhi it was one of the formative taste of childhood, Chandni Chowk and Delhi. Many a Sundays I have spent with my parents strolling, experiencing and growing here in Chandni Chowk and ramparts of the Red Fort. Such happy memories.

As Chandni Chowk welcomes Haldiram's the traditional, "Sohan halwa" makes a quiet exit. No more will we Delhi walas pack boxes of Sohanhalwa as sweet treats for our friends and families across the world. Imagine Mysore Paak to disappear from Bangaluru or Nolen gur Sandesh to disappear from Kolkata!! This was the first time I was setting foot here after the closure of Ghanteywala and felt a sad tug at my heart so I had to find some recognizable slice of my childhood nonetheless. And how lucky did I get! The famous "Daulat ki chaat" made up for my loss of Ghanteywala :D

This light frothy cream is the winter delight. It beats ice-cream hands down any day! And is exclusively found at Chandni Chowk in Delhi and Godhulia at Varanasi, that too only during the winter months. It eased my pain to a great extent I must say!

The sights of old buildings, landmarks around the area, withstanding the test of time also made my heart sing. 

Gurdwar Sisganj Sahib

Mattha Tekna at Chandni Chowk

The incredible marble filigree work of the Jain Association Building

However, getting there can be a bit tricky and exasperating experience. Specially if you are as restless as the average Delhite. The recommended transport would be, yes the motorized rick!! Look at the guy enjoying the ride, oblivious to the milling crowd around him and just soaking in the sheer atmosphere. So, if you want to enjoy it to the boot, leave your car at Daryaganj thereabouts and hop on a rick or you would trail like us in the car if you are lazy like us. The one kilometer stretch took us 50 minutes to cover! 

The reason being the Sunday Flee Market spilling all over the road. At least once a week the smallest entrepreneur gets his due. The Sunday morning definitely belongs to them,  Here, the vendors get to sell anything manufactured under the Sun. This market is a huge hit with the Uni students as well as people living on a tight budget in the capital city. 

However, it's a big surprise not to have a stampede or serious accident on this stretch as a routine. Only place where you can find the average Delhiwala not putting his/her aggressive foot forward on the accelerator, but the brashness remains unchanged though. They bump, hit, graze each other in cars, motor- bikes and ricks. It is given that you are o.k. with a dent or two, or the missing wing mirror for that matter. The bikers, cars just pile, as if caressing and move on missing or not missing by whisker all the time! It is definitely not for the faint - hearted. If you are walking through, it will be a lesson in monuverablity and agility making you almost ice -hockey ready. Bottom line remains it will be an unforgettable experience.

      

Brisk trading at the famous Chor Bazar of old Delhi

Once you get there you shall be rewarded though. As we were on a cold winter morning at the Galli Parathenwali :)

Piping hot paratha on the way

Matar Paratha at Galli parathenwali

These deep fried beauties come with as creative a stuffing as you want. Potato to bitter-gourd; vegetables to dairy, sweet to sour, the possibilities are almost myriad. There is one to please every palette.

I tried the winter hot favourites though. The savoury cauliflower and green peas. The standard home made paranthas are roasted and shallow fried, but here at Chandni Chowk they have created a supremely rich version upholding the tradition of deep fried Indian cuisine. The paranthas come with various accompaniments namely, two types of potato curry - one dry and one with gravy; green hot chutney and sweet banana chutney; additionally there is a mash of pumkin to go. But the show stopper in the accompaniments category is the vegetable salad in mustard and lime juice drizzle. Look at the gorgeous beauty below:

Mouthwatering vegetable salasd with mustard, lime juice and salt

Happy customers

As we left Chandni Chowk behind and headed back a forlorn scene left indelible image in my mind of past glories.

Was I taking it too much to heart? Possibly. But the honest truth remains, you might like or dislike Chandni Chowk but you can never ignore it.