Heavenly Turtuk

Approaching Turtuk

I am one of those travelers who likes to visit unspoiled, remote places, preferably in the mountains and soak up the atmosphere, meet new people and learn from them. But I refuse to read up everything under the Sun before hand. For me it takes away the fun of the discovery as well as the journey to a great extent. 

Biting cold winds of Nakee La or Sharp as Nails Pass

Traveling 1265 Kms through four of the world's highest motor-able passes namely, Nakee La, Changlang La, Lachung La and Khardung La, the road trip which started from Delhi  went via Manali - Jispa- Sarchu to Leh in four days; took it slow considering the 500 Kms of bad roads and high altitude acclimatization the road trip wasn't too bad, really. Crossed the Rohtang Valley, beautiful Jispa, the nauseating Gata Loops, Zing Zing Bar (much to my disappointment the bar was already closed for the winter), and psychedelic tents in Darcha and Bharatpur. 

I was little prepared for what I found in a little mountainous village called Turtuk Youl (lower) and Turtuk Faroul (upper) in the much acclaimed Nubra Valley of Ladakh. As the terrain is very difficult to maneuver and there is no electricity through out the day this is not a regular person's holiday idea. So it was nice to find a place less invading.  And I am so thankful for my blissful ignorance. Photographs can only be suggestive here when you have a novice photographer like me with a beginners' level camera. The Shyok river flows through this beautiful valley. Surrounded by gargantuan Himalayas this side and Karakoram on the Pakistan side it is dramatic and awe-inspiring topography.  Started with visit to all the monasteries around Leh area.

Maitreya Buddha at the Thiksey Monastery 

Stayed for three nights at Leh and checked out the beautiful Buddhist Gompas/Monasteries, chortens, palaces in and around Leh to Lamayuru.  Attended a soulful morning prayer at Thiksey. On the 8 day of the trip I reached Baltistan. It took my breath away and how! I am still gasping for air! On the way had to stop at Diskit Monastery for a breath taking view of the valley and the white desert sands.

Enchanting Shyok meandering through the Nubra Valley

Ethnically, the Balti and Ladakhi people are from the same blend of  Mongol, Aryan and Tibetan stock, Geographically, both Baltistan and Ladakh are high altitude regions ranging between 8000 to 12,000 feet. Climatically too, they experience similar temperature and winter can be particularly harsh with temperature dropping anywhere between minus 25 to 30 degrees Centigrade. Additionally, there is hardly any sun for two months of December and  January in Baltistan. Both the cultures share same love for wood craft, weaving and farm intensively. 

Economically, too they hold strong ties over centuries, several trade routes operated through Ladakh and Baltistan, "the most frequently taken route was the Chorbat La at Hanu, used by Shadma traders from central Ladakh to go to Khapulu and Skardu. The second route was from Kharul near Kargil which also went to Khapulu (today incidentally it is the last village beyond Tyakshi on the Indian side) and Skardu; this was used extensively by the Balti traders. Finally, the people of Northern Ladakh went into Baltistan along the Shyok river. The route went from Bogdang and then onwards to Turtuk, Tyakshi and Kapulu. When the Shyok froze in winter an ice-bed strong enough to walk formed at various points and shortened the length of the route." - A Cultural History of Ladakh, by Nawang Tsering Shkspo.  The only difference is in terms religion. Balti people are essentially Muslims and the Ladakhis are Buddhists.

Turtuk Faroul

Nubra Valley

The land is dotted with Indian and Pakistani patrol posts. You can still see the bunkers on both the sides. Historically, the Balti people have been on either side or the border but, have nonetheless, managed to retain their unique ways of life. They are very hardworking and congenial by nature. I was welcomed everywhere I went. A lady who was picking apples was very happy to share her pickings with us for free.

Chance meeting with Lambardar Janab Abdul Qadir at Tyakshi

We went to the next village Tyakshi after that it is out of bounds for the civilians. I met with the village people at the local tea shop and found out they wanted more number of schools as the population is increasing exponentially in Bogdang and one high school (run by the Indian Army) is not sufficient for four villages any more. I have made a note and intend to take it forward with authorities.

The main crops grown in this region are wheat, barley and buck wheat. Not to forget apricots. Baltistan is dotted with apricot orchards and fields of tantalizing buck wheat. Buck wheat is not remotely related to wheat. It is a covering plant for other crops and grows very quickly and needs very little water. It draws up water from lowest of the water tables, essentially making it very desert friendly. Buck wheat is a type of whole grain which is gluten free and protein rich. Although nutritionists are prescribing it for various reasons nowadays as meat substitute, mainly to reduce cholesterol and blood pressure, but the availability of the grain in big cities of India is still limited.  I had two local delightful Balti dishes known as Moskot and Kisir,  made of this great grain. Moskot is soft pancake served with walnut puree and walnut spread. Whereas, Kisir is a breakfast pancake topped with omelette. Our holiday camp graciously packed even some buck wheat powder for us to bring back home. Ever grateful for their generosity and warmth.

Fields of swaying buck-wheat on the hike to the village top

The view from the top of the village takes your breath away as you can see Karakoram right at the end with K2 peaking out from the left. It's kind of hazy here, but the results of zoomed in version is definitely better as far as K2 goes.

The beauty of magical Turtuk

No post on Turtuk can be complete without some pictures of the sheer beauty and also apricots. I do not have a better picture as I was too busy eating them I am afraid. Please do excuse friends. 

Finally the pretty Turtuk Holiday camps where I stayed

Can't wait to go back to Ladakh. This time it will be through Jozilla Pass from Srinagar. Hope my euphoria will go down now and I will be able to adjust back to life in Delhi.